The straightforward 2004 St.-Joseph Deschants would be better with more flesh and ripeness. It is a medium ruby-hued offering displaying tart acidity, licorice-infused strawberry and black cherry fruit, and hints of earth and rocks. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Hints of espresso and black olive on the nose give an earthy cast to the black cherry and berry flavors. A bit rustic and lacking depth, but this is a decent effort from a tough vintage. Drink now.——J.C.(5/31/2007)—— 85