Crisp and clean, with a long, delicately wrought finish, this is a throwback to the auslesen of earlier times, without heaps of sweetness, but instead playing off the fine balance between sugar and acid. Floral and citrus aromas weave around a core of green apple fruit, while a bass line of slatey minerality underscores the melody.——J.C.(10/1/2007)—— 92