The 2004 AN is predominantly Callet with a dollop of Mantonegro and Fogoneu. The total yields for this wine were an amazingly low 0.8 tone per acre. Purple in color, it has a superb nose of toasty, smoky oak, earth, black cherry and crushed flowers that jumps from the glass. Full-bodied, it has oodles of ripe fruit, lots of depth, and excellent concentration and length. Drink this hedonistic wine over the next 6-8 years. Importer: Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2004 AN/2 is a blend of 65% Callet, 25% Mantonegro, and 10% Syrah. Subsequently, 85% of the wine was aged in French oak (70% new) and 15% in tank for a total of 10 months. Dark ruby-colored, with expressive toasty, smoky, kirsch and raspberry aromas and flavors, on the palate this medium to full-bodied wine is rich yet elegant, nicely layered, and has a long, pure finish. Drink this unique wine over the next 4-6 years. Importer: Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Overall this Callet-led blend might exceed its more oaked, richer brother known as Son Negre. An has a rooty, oak-driven nose with hints of herbs and tobacco, while the palate is dark and tasty, with blackberry, cherry and cured meat flavors. Finishes with pepper and a lash of leftover oak that hopefully will disappear as the wine ages. Drink now through 2012.——M.S.(2/1/2008)—— 89