The 2008 Pallagrello Nero Ambruco is impressive. Black fruit, ash, minerals, smoke and licorice flow effortlessly from this firm, structured and brooding wine. The French oak is beautifully integrated and the overall balance is simply first-class. The Ambruco will require a measure of patience, however. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. The richness of Campanian oenology is still being discovered. These superb new releases from Terre del Principe are great starting points for readers who want to discover the virtues of Pallagrello Bianco, Pallagrello Nero and Casavecchia, all indigenous, native varieties that proprietor Peppe Mancini helped revive from near obscurity. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200