The Chelan region is Washington’s newest AVA, but already showing great potential for Syrah, as this aromatic and explosively flavorful bottle proves. Ripe berries, plums and cherries are swept into a mix of smoke and rock and iron filings; as you taste through the wine there are citrusy acids and hints of resin and tar; it just keeps adding in the nuances.——P.G.(9/1/2009)—— 90