The 2007 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Clos des Alees Vieilles Vignes smells of fresh lime with Chenin-like suggestions of quince and smoky candle wick. A rather austere combination of citrus zest with chalk and a wet stone mineral character on the palate leads to a finish whose alkaline, stony, chalky dimensions are fascinating as is, but will come into their own with a bit of creative food-and-wine pairing. Enjoy this over the next 18-24 months, and don’t be surprised if it is more generous a year from now than today. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191