The 2009 Bigaro (Moscato, Brachetto) is one of the most intriguing dessert wines being made in Italy today. These two indigenous varieties work beautifully here, with Moscato adding a measure of refinement that is usually missing when Brachetto is vinified on its own. Perfumed red cherries, sweet spices and dried roses linger on the exceptionally elegant, generous close. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Proprietor Stefano Perrone makes reference-point Moscatos. Readers who want to discover the true heights Moscato is capable of must put Perrone on their short list. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484