The 2007 Bigaro (Moscato and Brachetto) is another compelling effort. This rose-colored dessert wine offers up floral red raspberries, cinnamon, flowers, sweet herbs and a host of other aromas and flavors. A perennial favorite at my house, this wine never fails to provide immense pleasure. It is a superb accompaniment to cooked, rather than fresh, fruit desserts. Blueberry cobbler and raspberry jam tart come to mind as two fabulous matches. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2009. Along with Paolo Saracco, proprietor Stefano Perrone makes the reference-point Moscatos from Asti. As if that weren’t enough, Perrone also bottles one the finest modern-styled Barberas from Asti, the Barbera Mongovone. Count me among those who is thrilled Perrone gave up a career in motorcycle racing to focus on making wine. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484