Guigal's standard white wine cuvees, especially his Cotes du Rhone, have shown continued improvement, although it was more difficult to turn out a concentrated, ripe wine in 1992 and 1993 than in 1990. The 1993 Condrieu should turn out to be as good as the 1992, but not up to the level of the 1991. It exhibits an attractive honeyed fatness, medium to full body, good rather than great depth and length, and wonderful freshness and elegance. Drink it over the next 1-2 years.
The best recent vintage of Condrieu is the 1991, which is holding beautifully. It gets my highest marks despite the fact that I believe in drinking Condrieus within their first 2-3 years of life. When I last tasted the 1991 in March, 1994, it was even better than previously, with a delicate yet forceful bouquet of apricots and honeysuckle, and rich, full-bodied, unctuously-textured flavors. Guigal's Condrieus are fermented in one-third new oak casks and two-thirds tank and then blended.
Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; Tel. (617) 731-6644
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