Were this from a more prestigious winery it would command a considerably higher price, but evaluated on its own merits it is a stunning success. There is a vivid, broad middle palate of black cherry, cassis and plum; a fine acid structure, and hard, stiff tannins. But there is also an elegant complexity, highlighted with flavors of earth and iron, that comes from the soil. They speak to the extra care taken in the winemaking process so as not to obliterate the fragile taste of terroir with excess oak or overripe fruit. ——P.G.(6/1/2001)—— 93