Tedeschi’s 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is somewhat reticent at first, but with air it opens up to reveal wild cherries, herbs, earthiness and spices. This medium-bodied wine possesses excellent length and lovely overall balance, continuing to grow beautifully in the glass. It is an accessible Amarone to enjoy now and over the next few years. Only a slight lack of focus in the aromatics keeps the score from going higher. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770