A beautifully made wine, the 1998 Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande exhibits a dark ruby/purple color in addition to scents of smoke, plums, black cherries, and toast. Medium-bodied and pure, with an intriguing floral component to its red and black fruit characteristics, unobtrusive tannin, and well-integrated acidity, it will drink well for 4-5 years. Tel. (805) 489-0446; Fax (805) 489-0996

A little earthy, with plummy aromas accompanied by sun-dried tomato, rhubarb and hard spice notes. The flavors are along the same lines, with cherry tomato, coffee and spices. It’s very dry, and finishes with a slightly dusty, tannic bite. ——S.H.(2/1/2001)—— 86