The 2008 Pinot Noir Estate is a compelling wine laced with expressive dark red fruit, crushed flowers and licorice, all of which flow effortlessly from its mid-weight frame. Supple and elegant throughout, the Estate impresses for its fabulous sense of harmony. Pinot Noir is never inexpensive, but this is just about as good as it gets for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Brian Talley doesn’t miss a beat. This is an impressive set of wines from top to bottom. In general, I have a slight preference for the 2008 Chardonnays over the 2009s, as I find the earlier vintage shows more delineation and finesse. Readers who prefer a bold, overt style of Chardonnay may find more immediate pleasure in the 2009s. The Chardonnays were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged on their lees in 30% new oak. The 2008 Pinots are terrific, but they need quite a bit of air to show their best. The Pinots were fermented in open top fermenters, using native yeasts, and aged in barrel for 18-19 months. Talley used 30-35% new oak for the Pinots. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Pinots, which had just been bottled. Tel. (805) 489-0446; www.talleyvineyards.com

A beautiful Pinot, flashy and dry, and drinking well now. With crisp acidity and velvety tannins, it shows intense cherry, raspberry, currant and cola flavors, brightened with acidity that makes the finish clean and zesty.——S.H.(7/1/2011)—— 92