The 1994 Gran Reserva 904 reveals a light ruby/garnet color with considerable pink and amber at the edge. Aromas of scorched earth, soy, mushrooms, smoke, plums, and figs emerge from this Graves-like, medium-bodied, elegant yet flavorful 1994. While not overly powerful or rich, there is a lot going on in this offering. Importer: a Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

Leaner than ideal on the nose, with hot aromas of leather, earth and peach pit. A bit sharp in flavor, showing more pie cherry and apricot than anything else. Still a classic, however, but best be prepared for tea and juice notes more than beef and brawn.——M.S.(9/1/2004)—— 88