1992 was a disastrous vintage in Rioja, but you would never know that by tasting La Rioja Alta's 1992 Gran Reserva 904. Medium to dark garnet-colored, with a huge perfume of melted caramel, cedar, tobacco, spice box, and cherries, this complex, elegant, medium-bodied wine is fully mature. While it is unlikely to get better, it will hold at this plateau for another 5-6 years. The wine needs to be drunk with food in order to best strut its stuff. Importer: a Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897