Incense, licorice and a host of other dark aromas and flavors emerge as the 2008 Saia (Nero d’Avola) opens up in the glass. The 2008 is more complex and nuanced than the 2009, but also firmer in style. Mint, tobacco and anise are some of the notes that develop over time. This striking, beautifully delineated red should continue to provide compelling drinking for a number of years. It is yet another example of a great Italian wine that over delivers for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Feudo Maccari is located in Noto, one of the regions within Sicily where Nero d’Avola excels. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

Saia is a plump and modern expression of Nero d’Avola that opens with a richly concentrated appearance and intense aromas of black cherry, brown sugar, cola and toasted oak. There’s a vinous, raw quality that should integrate with two or three more years of bottle aging. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 89