The profound 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with a deep and carnal bouquet that mingles rich aromas of blackberries and cassis with notions of summer truffles, smoked meats, espresso roast and baking chocolate. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with the most mid-palate volume of any wine in the cellar—its flesh and texture largely concealing an impressively ample chassis of rich, powdery tannins. The finish is long and sapid. This is a decidedly serious Chambertin that will likely gain ground on its 2016 and 2015 siblings with bottle age.