Exceptionally concentrated, unctuous and oily, this reveals the floral/spicy character of the grape in all its glory. It’s a complex wine that just keeps on going, with jasmine, lemon polish, citrus and more fleshing out the flavors. The moderate alcohol and dry style keep it perfect for a range of foods, especially smoked salmon or spicy Thai.——P.G.(12/15/2009)—— 92