The 2007 Syrah Reserve Release was sourced from a vineyard planted in 1971, was naturally fermented, and was aged for 10 months in seasoned French oak before bottling without fining or filtration. Purple-colored, it offers a captivating aromatic array of mineral, lavender, smoked game, bacon and blueberry in a style reminiscent of a quality Cote-Rotie. Medium-bodied, elegant, and silky, it has the structure to evolve for 2-3 years and will offer a drinking window extending from 2012 to 2022. Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA; Hoboken, NJ; tel. (201) 714-9700

A top-notch effort, this is the sort of wine that should shatter existing stereotypes of Australian Shiraz. Savory notes of smoked meat and espresso combine with blackberry fruit and scents of violets, and while the wine is clearly concentrated, it weighs in at only 13% alcohol. Drink 2012-2020.——J.C.(2/1/2010)—— 91