The 2008 Reserve Release Syrah is a real step-up in terms of quality. This is produced from 39 year vines and fermented using 100% whole bunches. Possessing a very deep garnet-purple color, this wine has a gamey, smoked duck and venison character with complementary notes of black cherry sauce, some licorice and a touch of truffles. Very concentrated and rich in the mouth with medium-firm, fine tannins and medium-high acid, it finishes very long. Though tempting to drink now, this wine will improve with 1 to 2 years in bottle and should evolve nicely over the next 8 to 10 years. Only 700 cases made. Windy Peak is the name of De Bortoli’s entry level Victoria range, often offering solid, well-made wines of impressive volumes at very good value.Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA Inc.; tel. + 1 201 714 9700; www.debortoli.com.au

A lithe and supple red, offering a lively mouthful of mineral-accented blackberry, cherry, tea leaf and licorice flavors, persisting with finesse on the long, vivid finish. Drink now through 2018. 800 cases made, 150 cases imported.??–HS??Region: Australia / Victoria / Yarra Valley Select to Add

Distinctive for its potent herb, olive and pepper shadings, this firm, tannic Syrah (note the spelling) stands well apart from the vast majority of Australian offerings made from this grape. It’s a bit austere but concentrated enough to suggesting cellaring. Try after 2016. ——J.C.(11/1/2011)—— 89