A top-notch effort but more terroir-based, with hints of truffle, tree bark, leather, lavender, and blue and red fruits is the earthy, spicy 2004 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cairanne Cuvee Maximillien, made from 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre, and the rest Syrah and Carignan. This is a spicier, earthier style of wine, and therefore probably more controversial, but it has oodles of complexity, and I loved its personality and Provencal character. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800