The 1999 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Hills is an elegant, medium-bodied, cool climate, pleasant, but one-dimensional effort. I suspect acid freaks will rate this wine several points higher, as elevated acidity is de rigeur. That said, I enjoyed the purity and quality of its fruit, as well as the fact that it provides a refreshing taste.Tel. (805) 688-8554

Bright and lively, there's a zesty core of black cherry and blackberry fruit, with hints of mint and oregano on the finish. Drink now through 2005. 1,900 cases made. -JL