Surpassing my expectations, Cathiard's 1987 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru En Orveaux bursts with aromas of spices, warm berry fruit and smoked meats. Medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, its ample core of fruit is framed by ripe acids and melting tannins. This isn't profound, but it is pure and judiciously chaptalized, representing a decided success in a challenging year.