The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru En Orveaux delivers a superb bouquet of cassis, wild damson, grilled squab, sweet soil tones, licorice and exotic spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and concentrated, with a lavish core of old vine fruit, succulent acids, and fine-grained structuring tannins, concluding with a long and dramatic finish. This cuvée, from seventy-year-old vines, is the insiders' choice for chez Cathiard this year.