The 2005 Chardonnay “Cold Creek Vineyard” exhibits an assertive personality with its light gold color, toasty, mineral, butterscotch, and tropical fruit aromas and flavors. This leads to a viscous, mouth-coating, full-bodied Chardonnay that has enough power to stand up to full-flavored fish courses and light meats. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

The hot climate of the Cold Creek Vineyard sharpens up the contours of this Chardonnay, which shows more of a classic Washington character. Bright fruit, a mix of apples and peaches and pears, is shot through with streaks of butterscotch from fermentation in new French oak. It’s been through 100% malolactic, yet retains some crispness. Polished and full-bodied.——P.G.(12/1/2007)—— 89