The 2007 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay was sourced from a site planted in 1973. Over half the blend was fermented with natural yeasts in 55% new French oak and aged sur lie for 9 months. Light gold-colored, it offers up notes of toasty oak, baked apple, and butterscotch. Riper, rounder, and fuller in body than its two siblings, it has outstanding depth, concentration, and length. It may well evolve for 1-2 years and drink well through 2015. Chateau Ste. Michelle continues to demonstrate that a winery can be large and quality-oriented at the same time. Their current collection is as good as or better than anything it has done in the past. Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

Deep gold in color, quite soft in the mouth, this buttery Chardonnay will appeal to those who like a microwave popcorn style. It’s already mature, light and flavorful, with a yeasty, beery aftertaste.——P.G.(12/31/2009)—— 88