Readers who have tasted many Alsatian Vendange Tardives and have found them to be too expressive, heavy-handed, or sweet to accompany meals may want to taste Ostertag's 1997s. While this wine has high levels of residual sugar, it is neither ponderous, heavy-handed, or excessively assertive as some VTs can be. In fact, it is so well-balanced, elegant, and easy to drink that I did a double-take when I heard the sugar level that it supported.The 1997 Gewurztraminer Fronholz Vendange Tardive displays a nose of creamed sweet spices. This yellow plum, cherry, pineapple, and lychee-flavored wine is expressive, well-defined as well as feminine. It has loads of concentration, power, and depth of fruit yet maintains surprising elegance. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.