Sage and bergamot as if from a Muscat or Scheurebe join caraway, celeriac, rose petal, and litchi of unmistakable varietal origin in the effusive nose of Ostertag’s 2008 Gewurztraminer Fronholz Vendange Tardive, and a ravishing herbal and floral inner-mouth profusion accompanies quince preserves, celery root, overripe musk melon, and litchi on a buttery palate, leading to an unabashedly sweet finish at least as gaudy as was this wine’s nose. At 11% alcohol, it shares with the typical Ostertag Gewurztraminer a welcome sense of levity, and there is at least a modicum of refreshment to be derived from the persistent finish. Whether the sweetness will better-integrate or become cloying with time I hesitate to predict, although certainly this wine will remain fresh for well more than a decade.Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524