Ronco delle Betulle’s 2012 Friuli Colli Orientali Ribolla Gialla is not an understated wine by any measure. Its budding complexity keeps your attention as does its pristine aromas of candied fruit, caramel, lychee fruit, dried sage and crushed mineral. Indeed, those endnotes of talc powder and brimstone add a pleasant surprise. Drink: 2014-2016. Founded by Giovanbattista Adami, Ronco delle Betulle is run today by daughter Ivana Adami and son Simone Sechi. The modern incarnation of this estate came to be in the 1990s and its wines faithfully reflect the qualities associated with the historic Rosazzo wine denomination. The samples presented this year performed strongly across the board, but I’d like to make a special call out to the Pignolo-based red. It’s a singular experience. Importer: Riahi Selections, www.riahiselections.com