There’s not too much to be said about the 1997 Vin San Giusto, the estate’s former Vin Santo, other than the fact that it has to be tasted to be believed. Staggeringly viscous, sweet, and rich, it is loaded with sensations of tropical fruit and hazelnuts, raisins and dried apricots, vanilla and caramel. Almost too packed to swallow, it appears to be destined for 30 years of fabulous drinking. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411