The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is a pure, rapturous beauty. Layers of sweet red fruit meld into rose petals, licorice, spices and mint as the 2007 seduces all of the senses. The ripe, open personality of the year is present, but there is more than enough structure to provide balance. Floral notes reappear on the vibrant, beautifully articulated finish. The 2007 is more than a worthy follow up to the epic 2006. Even better it should drink well quite a bit earlier than that wine. Sadly, there are fewer than 1,000 cases to go around. This is a magical Brunello in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2032. Giulio Salvioni is one of the great producers of Italy's old guard. Spending time in this tiny, cramped cellar in the center of Montalcino tasting every cask is one of the great experiences for anyone who loves traditionally made Brunello. In some years, Salvioni takes one cask and releases it early as Rosso di Montalcino. I am convinced that Salvioni's small vineyard, and that of his neighbor Diego Molinari, are among the most privileged spots for Sangiovese in Tuscany. If we were in Burgundy, these vineyards would be considered the grandest of the grand crus. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200