(from century-old vines): Bright, saturated medium ruby. Primary, high-pitched aromas of blackberry, violet, licorice and crushed stone, accented by a whiff of pepper. Dense, sappy and savory on entry, then superconcentrated and smooth in the middle, with terrific peppery, minerally energy and lift. No easy sweetness here. Extremely unevolved yet utterly silky wine, offering superb inner-mouth tension. Most impressive today on the rising, perfumed back end, which feature noble tannins and outstanding verve. This complex expression of soil is likely to be a long-distance runner.