A pure Gamay vinified for early and casual enjoyment, Michin's 2009 Fiefs Vendeens Gammes en May certainly achieves its intended result. Imagine fresh cherry and red raspberry juice macerated on their skins and pits - with a few pebbles thrown in - for an effusion of bitter-edged ripe berries. This is light yet far from thin; simple, yes, but infectious and guaranteed to delight all but curmudgeons if served slightly cool over the coming 6 months. From south of Nantes, and with views from his vineyards onto the Atlantic, Thierry Michon - an impassioned proponent of biodynamics - is growing some fascinating wines that are bringing recognition to the little known Vendee and its sub-appellation Brem.A Jon-David Headrick Selection (various importers), Asheville, NC; tel. (828) 252 8245