Barrel-fermented in French oak, this expressive wine makes a compelling case, as do all the wines of Carabella and neighbor Chehalem, for this new Oregon AVA. Bright apple-flavored fruit is laced with plenty of buttery oak, oily nut flavors, sweet cream and spice, with the acid underpinnings to cut through any rich sauces.——P.G.(4/1/2009)—— 91