The 1998 Cotes du Rhone Villages Rasteau Vieilles Vignes is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Carignan that achieved 14.5% alcohol naturally, this dense purple-colored wine is bursting with black fruits, kirsch liqueur, licorice, and smoky scents. Ripe, full-bodied, with impressive sweetness and harmony, as well as a super-rich mid-palate, this staggering wine can be bought for a song. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2012. A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42 84 38 22), various American importers, including Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; tel. (415) 467-0130, Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; tel. (617) 965-2933, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625