This is fast becoming Montes’ signature wine. In only its second vintage, this 100% Syrah from the highest reaches of the Apalta vineyard is lush, refined and exciting. The nose offers a delicate amalgam of cherry, mustard seed, chocolate and horseradish notes. And while it’s huge and extracted, it toes the line of balance. On the palate, lovely blackberry, licorice and syrup flavors take control and don’t let go.——M.S.(3/1/2004)—— 92