In a style that nods more to Bordeaux than the New World, the cassis, tobacco and herb bouquet shows class and style. Displays fine balance and good acidity, which supports the ripe black-currant fruit, cedar and peppery notes. It’s structured rather than plush, and finishes long, dry and toasty. Drinkable now, it should improve further with a few years’ aging.——W.E.(6/1/2001)—— 88