The red offerings begin with the 2004 Syrah Columbia Valley (which contains 2% Grenache). It is a blend of Syrah from five vineyards and was aged for 18 months in 30% new French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Dark ruby-colored, it has an expressive perfume of scorched earth, meat, game, cassis and blueberry. On the palate the wine is full-bodied (14.8% alcohol) with plenty of supple, ripe blue fruits yet is surprisingly light on its feet. It has a long, pure finish and enough structure to evolve for several years. Drink this tasty Syrah through 2022. Tel. (509) 525-0940, www.lecole.com

This is more fruit-driven, whereas the Seven Hills bottling is meatier, more Northern Rhone. Features a vivid, ebullient, young and grapey nose; while the young, zippy fruit is tight, tart and spicy. There is a good lift to the palate, with firm acids and a layer of citrus rind adding body to the finish.——P.G.(12/31/2006)—— 91