The 2007 Syrah Columbia Valley spent 18 months in 25% new French oak. Aromas of smoke, bacon, game, and blueberry lead to an easy-going, spicy, friendly wine that has enough structure to provide pleasure for another 6 years. L’Ecole No. 41, under the leadership of Marty Clubb, is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and now is about to outgrow the charming label which may have contributed to its fame. Be that as it may, L’Ecole now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent as has pricing, no doubt the main reason why L’Ecole seems to have survived the recession without too much pain.Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

This is a relatively light style of Washington Syrah, elegant and nuanced, with an interesting mix of herbs and barrel spices over tangy raspberry/blueberry fruit. Medium length, it tails out into a soft, gentle finish, with a touch of heat from the alcohol.——P.G.(12/1/2010)—— 89