Ted Lemon is not the first to exploit Pinot Noir in the Anderson Valley, but he is one of the best. His 1996 Pinot Noir One Acre is a delicious, cherry-scented and flavored Pinot that reminds me of a premier cru from the Cote de Beaune. Forward and ripe, it possesses a silky texture, and finishes with nice length and the judicious use of new oak (about 50% new oak barrels were employed). Drinkable now, it should be consumed over the next 2-3 years. This small artisanal producer has moved to a barn/winery high on Howell Mountain, adjacent to the Black Sears Vineyard. Proprietors Heidi and Ted Lemon continue to turn out some of California's most elegant, flavorful, subtle wines. Littorai's wines are only available via their mailing list. Tel. (707) 963-4762; Fax (707) 963-7332