Damn me for saying it, but I actually think the 2008 Latour will turn out to be even better than the 2005 or 2000. I still have a weakness for the 2003, but it is somewhat atypical in how forward, fleshy, and opulent it is. The 2008 Latour is a more concentrated version of the 1996, and that's saying something. The harvest took place between September 29 and October 7 for the Merlot, but the Cabernet Sauvignon finished around the 19th of October. The natural alcohol of 13.48% may be the highest ever achieved at Latour. The final blend is 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Moreover, in a low yield year, only 40% of the production made it into the grand vin, so even with the global economic crisis, this is going to be a tightly allocated wine - with under 10,000 cases produced. A fabulous infant, it exhibits an inky/purple color as well as extraordinarily pure notes of creme de cassis, crushed rocks, and flowers. The fact that there is no hint of oak is a testament to the vintage's density and richness. The wine possesses full-bodied power as well as a boatload of tannin, and it is even more backward than Lafite Rothschild. Nevertheless, the hallmark of a great wine and potentially top-notch vintage is the sweetness of the tannin, and that is evident. The wine is young, unevolved, and incredibly pure (another hallmark of this unexpectedly magical vintage) with an amazingly long, textured, layered finish. It should be forgotten for 5-8 years, and consumed over the following four decades.

This is dense and muscular, but balanced, with the flesh to offset the sinew, as pure mulled black currant, melted fig and crushed plum fruit is caressed by substantial but fine-grained structure. The long, iron- and tobacco-filled finish has excellent focus and drive. This could rival LLC for longest-lived wine of the vintage. Best from 2013 through 2022. 9,500 cases made.

(94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc & Petit Verdot; the Grand Vin represents 40% of the whole.) Black-red, terrific expression of blackcurrant fruit, slightly smoky and already complex, really fine floral fruit, really fine clear depth and length, a tight style, firm and classic, full of energy and savoury fruit, excitingly precise, tannins in perfect balance. Drink 2018-40.

Lowest Merlot proportion ever in the grand vin. The last time there was more than 90% Cabernet Sauvignon was 2004. 'Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot don't complement each other at Latour - Merlot diminishes our Cabernet Sauvignon unless they are very, very old Merlot vines which add texture and density and concentration. The rest dilute it. It's also probably our taste. I just don't like these Merlots - I prefer to keep this precision...'Very dark and rich-looking. Dense and purple. Graphite notes and very dense. Some seductive perfume. Then very ripe start with lots of ripeness. Very firm and confident and pure. Fine stones, very precise. Sucky stones. Still very cool, very neat, very fine. Masses of density stops it being painfully dry on the finish. Very fine sleek and dense - well back on track after '07 by Latour'! One of the most polished Latours but very Latour. Very healthy. Health juice.