Giving the opaque purple-black colored 2018 Latour the obligatory swirl in the glass sets off an eruption of powerful, profound molten black fruit—blackcurrant preserves, boysenberries and blueberry compote—followed by emerging sparks of licorice, Indian spices, Sichuan pepper, rose oil and tree bark, plus wafts of cast-iron pan and pencil shavings. The palate is big, full-bodied and super rich on entry, and yet it has an exquisitely crafted structure, featuring very finely grained tannins and fantastic freshness, acting to curtail and channel the many, many earthy layers, culminating in a supernova display of minerals and exotic spices that just go on and on. A mind-bending paradox, this is a Latour that so clearly evokes time and place, conflict and triumph, energy and elegance; think not of it as a wine so much as a liquid account of history. Like many 2018s, it is delicious right now, but not to allow it 8-10 years in bottle would be missing the point. It will continue to cellar for as long as any of us now living care to imagine.
This vintage of Latour is composed of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot, with 14.3% alcohol and an IPT (total polyphenol index) of 81. Only around 6,000 bottles were produced, due to mildew pressure early in the 2018 season, affecting the yields but not the quality. This is the second smallest crop since the terrible frosts of 1991, the smallest being 2013.
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