The 2001 Reserva is rather funky on the nose, which follows through on the mid-weight mid-palate. The funk seemed to be reductive in nature. There are light tannins on the finish, but the wine is generally approachable and well balanced, for easy drinking. Drink now-2009. Influential Australian winemaker David Baverstock has been the winemaker here for some years now.Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

Of the many wines from Esporao, this is the most traditionally Portuguese in its dark black tannins, acidity and leather and spice aromas. It is powerful, at 14.5% alcohol, and a touch hot but it is a great wine with richly flavored dishes. ——R.V.(12/1/2004)—— 88