The 2004 RESERVA is not quite as deep and lush as the Garrafeiras produced by this winery, but it is powerful and persistent. It shows exuberant fruit flavors early on and considerable intensity. It is succulent and gripping on the finish. It is a blend of 40% Aragones (Tempranillo), 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Trincadeira. The grape combination delivers a flavor profile that may be a bit unusual for some, and may draw some divergent opinions. At times I liked it quite a lot, and as the wine aired out, there were times when I was less enthralled, but overall this is my favorite Reserva from this winery. (Keep in mind that the Reserva at this winery is actually a value wine, and while it delivers in that regard, it does not signify their top wine.) The fruit is open and expansive early on, seemingly dominated by the Cabernet, but significant tannins appear with some air and for awhile they subsume the wine. With more air, Trincadeira nuances seemed to take over. It did fade a bit eventually, after about five hours open. It may take a year or so for this to develop some charm and come into its best balance. It actually showed a little better on Day 2. If you like its style, this will be a really nice deal. There were approximately 29,000 cases made. Drink 2008-2014. Esporao is one of Alentejo’s iconic producers, with vast vineyards (some 650 hectares) that partly have some age on them (some vines are around thirty years old, considerable relative to the many young wineries in the region). It has some of the region’s most beautiful and atmospheric cellars. Its lineup tends to be value oriented, and the winery excels in producing nice wines for little money, sometimes to the point where you wonder why you should step up. Its winemaker, Australian David Baverstock, is a long time resident in Portugal who has assisted many prominent wineries in the Douro as well.Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843.

The top-of-the-line red from Esporao, this partners the white Private Selection. The comparative restraint of this wine is admirable, with ripe, bright fruits, smoothed by wood. The dark, dry tannins and the dense, almost impenetrable texture hint at the power; finishing with wood spice and acidity.——R.V.(12/15/2007)—— 92