The 2008 RESERVA is lovely, refined, suave and elegant, with a soft, caressing texture and burst of flavor lingering on the finish. Everything seems rather well integrated here, hardly a hair out of place, although it does need a little time to integrate the oak just a bit better. There is steel underneath, even if it opens with a bit of a creamy texture. With air, it shows off its structure and intensity, the tannins providing some grip on the finish. The more I drank this sexy Southerner, the more I liked it. I think it will age gracefully and it still has some considerable potential to improve in the cellar, although it is quite approachable. Drink now-2020. Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

Something of a disappointment in this vintage, a wine that has an awkward bitter character. The wine is fine enough, with rich berry fruits, but misses the style of previous vintages.——R.V.(2/1/2011)—— 87