Tightly wound, with a firm foundation of gravelly tannins supporting the ripe plum, currant and blackberry flavors. Dense and concentrated, it shows the austerity of Diamond Mountain Cabernets. Worthy of cellaring. Decant for now. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Best from 2007 through 2013. 250 cases made. -JL

Some great Cabs are drinkable when young, while others require patience. This is the latter sort. It’s a tough, young wine, dominated by dusty tannins leading to an astringent finish. But it’s incredibly fine, showing a balance and grace rare even in Napa Valley. As it warms up and breathes in the glass, it gets even better, giving tantalizing hints of ripe cassis and cherries that now are buried. You could open it now, after decanting, but it should begin to blossom in 2008, and will improve for many years. ——S.H.(9/1/2006)—— 97