The very tannic ’05 reserve is a blend of Petit Verdot, Cab Sauvignon, Merlot and Cab Franc. It’s fleshy and rich in blackberry, cassis and tobacco flavors, with lots of new toasty oak, and there’s something meaty, like ground hamburger with a splash of tamari. Utterly delicious and very fine, this low-production bottling should evolve over many years.——S.H.(9/1/2008)—— 93