Assistant Winemaker Will Thompson calls it “a hug from the inside,” and it’s easy to see what he means: There’s warming, concentrated cassis and mixed plums on the palate, with smoky barbecue aromas on the nose. But be forwarned that the fruit here is so rich that it is liable to suffocate folks who prefer pecks on the cheek to large-scale embraces. ——D.T.(2/1/2004)—— 90