The stunning 2007 Gigondas Les Reinages may be the finest wine Delas has yet made from this appellation. Beautiful notes of black raspberries, blueberries, crushed rocks, lavender, and a hint of spice are followed by a full-bodied wine displaying superb concentration as well as depth. Drink it over the next 10-12 years. In the late 1990s, as the quality of one of the northern Rhone’s most well-known negociant firms, Paul Jaboulet-Aine, was beginning to decline, the quality of Delas Freres was soaring, and they are now one of the three top negociant firms in the Rhone Valley. Delas Freres has been the property of Champagne Deutz since 1977, and belongs to the same owners as Champagne Louis Roederer. The owners as well as the Directeur Technique, the brilliant Jacques Grange, and winemaker Jean-Francois Farinet deserve credit for the rise in quality at this operation. The Delas Freres wines continue to go from strength to strength, and while I believe the Jaboulet wines will return to form under the new ownership, Delas Freres is already there. The current portfolio includes strong 2006s and very good 2007s. I reported on the gorgeous Cotes du Rhones and Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #179, but there are two other noteworthy offerings from the south. Jacques Granges has done exceptionally well in Gigondas, a difficult appellation in which to work, even if you are a Gigondas vigneron, much less a northern Rhone negociant. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Very fresh and rounded, with a lovely, pure beam of black currant, fig and raspberry fruit laid gently over spice, fruitcake and melted licorice notes. The finish is long and supple. Drink now through 2013. 2,000 cases imported. -JM