A Southern Rhone I did not review in Issue 203 that merits attention is the 2010 Gigondas Les Reinages. This Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache blend has turned out even better than I expected, revealing lots of forest floor, garrigue and blue as well as dark fruits (especially ripe raspberries). This elegant, medium- to full-bodied, classic Gigondas exhibits surprising finesse, perfume and style for Gigondas. Drink it over the next decade. Over the last 10-15 years, Delas Freres, which had muddled along with no great distinction for many years, has hit full stride under the ownership of the Louis Roederer-Deutz Champagne firm and the management of Jacques Grange, who continues to push the envelope of quality for both the Northern and Southern Rhone selections. The top single vineyard wines are world class in every sense, often flirting with perfection. Moreover, readers should realize this is also an impressive source for value. Delas’s top St.-Joseph cuvee comes from the hillside vineyards overlooking the small commune of St.-Jean de Muzols. The Delas firm owns 25 acres in Hermitage from which they make a basic cuvee, called Domaine des Tourettes, and, in the greatest vintages, a luxury cuvee, Les Bessards, which comes entirely from the great lieu-dit of the same name. Delas has long had a reputation for making outstanding Condrieu, of which he makes two cuvees. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Displaying minerality, good acidity and hints of crushed rocks, white flowers, raspberries and black cherries, the 2010 Gigondas is a deep, medium to full-bodied wine with a cooler climate mouthfeel and personality. This blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah should age nicely for 10-12 years. (Not yet released)As I noted last year, there has been tremendous progress and a definitive amelioration of quality with respect to the Chateauneuf du Papes being produced by Delas.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000